I know you’re wondering how did I end up doing a pattern hack on a Spring jacket when there’s so many patterns out there for this very garment. Well… it was a perfect storm. I had New Look 6585 in my pattern stash for the longest and I could not settle on a fabric that I wanted to use but I knew I wanted to use it somehow. Then last weekend, I was organizing my fabric stash and vowing to sew through all of my fabric when I had an epiphany.
I had a decent amount of this cow fabric that I bought very early on in my Etsy shop development. I just knew this cow print would be perfect for a Spring jacket. I frantically began cutting the pattern and placing it on the fabric when I realized that I didn’t have enough. So I found this blush fabric in my stash and I immediately fell in love with the color palette and began trying to figure out how to add this to the jacket without it looking like I ran out of fabric. Because I was limited on the amount of fabric that I had, I used view C and cut the pattern for a size small.
And truth be told, if you decide to hack your own pattern for a jacket, this is probably the best one because it has enough design ease and enough simplicity to add embellishments as needed.
Supplies:
4 1-inch buttons
Twill tape
Bias tape
1.5 yards of each complementary canvas or twill fabric (I recommend that one is a print) for View C.
The Hack:
- Well, luckily this was a pattern with a raglan cut, so the color blocking worked very naturally. I used the blush on the back panel. That’s piece 2 in the pattern envelope.
- There was also a line on the sleeve pattern pieces (3 & 4) where you can adjust your sleeve length. I actually cut that piece and used it to color block my sleeves.
- Next, the pattern envelope warns that you need to choose a double sided fabric since you will see the wrong side. I didn’t have double sided fabric but I had bias tape. So I used bias tape as a decorative element.
- After I cut my pieces, I began sewing my jacket. As I’m sewing I realize that I really want this to look like an authentic jacket (the directions don’t call for any top stitching). I top stitched the top seam of the raglan sleeve, the color block cuff, the side seams and the raglan armpit areas. This really allowed for the jacket to take a more structured form.
- I hemmed my sleeves to 1 inch (the pattern calls for 1/4 inch).
- Do not hem the bottom of your jacket…yet.
The Extras:
- Once the foundation of the jacket was complete, I added my bias tape around the entire border of the jacket front and hood. I used bias tape that would match my buttons, but you can use any kind.
- I added my draw string holes a quarter inch from the edge of my hood fabric (1/2 inch from the edge of the bias tape). My draw string holes are about 16 inches from the top of the hood. I use my button hole foot to make the stitches. Be sure to use a button that is around the same width of your twill tape so that its a snug hole.
- Next I closed the hem of my bias tape around the border.
- Using my seam ripper I slice open my draw string holes and feed my twill tape through the hood. I cut the ends to a reasonable length and tie knots at the end.
- Next I add my button holes to the right side jacket panel. I measure 5 inches from the bottom of my jacket and mark my button holes 5 inches apart from the next. I mark the button holes 1 1/2 inches from the edge of my jacket hem.
- Next I sew my buttons to the left side jacket panel. I use the same measurements that I used for my button holes. I mark where I would like my button by using a dissolvable pen and sew my buttons onto the jacket.
- Then I hemmed the bottom of my jacket.
If you watched my Instagram stories, then you know I considered adding pockets. After dozens of second opinions, I felt like this would be an over design. However, my suggested pocket ideas are below.
Optional Hack Ideas:
- Adding cargo pockets.
- Adding pockets on the side seam.
RAVEN MAUREEN 